The world must be liberated from the sand-fly

Did I tell you we landed on a glacier in a helicopter? Oh. Shame. I could tell you all about it again. Okay then, I’ll wait till we’re home.

Via Queenstown (which we are not telling Peter and Simon about because we think they would love it there) and Arrowtown which is almost as it was in the gold rush

and fascinating, we got to the Franz Joseph Glacier – the one we would have choppered to had we not done that at Milford. The day we were at Franz Joseph the weather was pretty good and we would have been able to fly but we are certain we made exactly the right decision to do it at Milford: the cloud was quite low and I’m not even sure the helicopters were actually landing on the glacier.

It is a remarkable sight even from the ground. A glacier: thick, thick, blue ice but at a level you simply walk up to. It’s a geological, ecological phenomenon which is (apparently) quite unusual and wonderful to look at.

After that we’ve travelled up the west coast passing through town after town, each consisting of huge estates of …well, just fields and forests and farms and coastline and a couple of houses. Beautiful scenery though.The beaches are universally grey shingle which is actually harvested from the rivers and used in copious quantities on the roads. Greymouth doesn’t exactly sell itself well, either,with a sign which says “Welcome to the Grey Area”! Greymouth was, in fact, the mining town which had that disaster around the time of the miraculous Chilean miners rescue, but it really is just a working town and not much for tourists. The beaches are not only grey but largely inaccessible because between the road and the coast is mainly farmland. It’s as though the sea is just ‘there’ and isn’t seen as having a tourist potential: it doesn’t really because of its greyness and because of NZ’s most evil bird of prey – the sand-fly. They land on you and, before you know it, they’ve unpacked their blankets and thermos flasks, used you as a raw barbeque and beggared off. Evil, evil, evil creatures leaving Heather and me to share one remaining functioning leg.

But we have found some wonderful places to picnic sans sand-fly:

seen the Pancake Rocks:

and some more fur seals.

(Si, I was at full zoom from about 20 metres away and I’ve cropped this – not bad, I think.)

The weather remains very kind to us and notably warmer as we have moved further north.

We have been out of internet range for a while and keeping tabs on news hasn’t been easy, with even radio stations hard to get at times. But the Tokyo quake has been met with some shock here. People on west coast beaches were warned not to swim for fear of a tsunami and Blenheim, where we head for in the next day or so, had a 2.1 wobble yesterday. When an air raid-type siren woke us at 3am this morning we thought it must be a warning of a quake near to us but we discovered in the morning (when it went off again at 7.30!) it was simply calling the volunteer firemen! We’ve still each got a change of trousers available thank goodness! 

We are having to plan the last few days of this part of the trip. We need to be within easy reach of Christchurch on Saturday with the van to take back ready for the flight to Hong Kong via Sydney.

Milford Sound

I have read the Stephen Fry Compendium of Hyperbole and Superlatives, even the chapter where he explains the art of stringing adjectives together that no one has ever heard of but all mean the same really, and still I cannot explain what we’ve experienced today.

We have come to Te Anau, effectively the gateway to New Zealand’s Fiordland. Our plan was to gauge the weather and see if we could get one of the 80 rain-free days in Milford Sound (which, by the way was neither found by Milford or, in fact, is a Sound but a true, full-blown Fiord of the Scandinavian variety). So we plumped for Monday and weren’t we the lucky ones: almost cloudless sky. Yesterday we watched an amazing film of the area taken from a helicopter and when it ended and the small audience broke into spontaneous applause, the person sitting nearest to me just said “Wow!” and in our conversation that followed they said that they had, that very day, taken a helicopter flight and they rated it the best $**** they had ever spent.

We had planned to do that onto the glacier at Franz Joseph or Fox, further up the coast but the growing consensus was that there may be no better chance than today. This same couple had waited three days in Franz Joseph and the weather had stopped them flying.

So, we decided we’d bring forward our heli-flight and do it today.

A coach picked us up from our site and we drove to Milford Sound, stopping on the way for photo-opportunities: the scenery was breath-taking (here I go, but I might have started too high!). There was a little disappointment that the much-hailed Mirror Lakes had cloud above them when we stopped and they didn’t work as well as lakes we know in Ireland. But after about three hours driving, stopping at stunning scenic points, driving some more, being entertained by Bruce our driver with amazing information and some jokes which will be right up Simon and Peter’s street, we arrived at Milford and boarded our boat. No sooner had we stepped foot than we were served a mighty lunch and off we went.

This, then, is a Fiord with steep forested mountain plunging from a mile up to a mile below the water on either side. No words or pictures can describe how beautiful it is. Usually Heath and I are chatting away and pointing things out to each other but we were strangely quiet because our chins were resting, for the most part, on the deck!

We gently cruised up one side and down the other, pausing to look at fur seal, water cascading from above with the bow of the boat just a couple of metres from where it crashed into the water, soaking those outside on the lower deck and spraying those of us on the top.

We took about 45 minutes off the boat to go 8 metres under water

in an observation chamber, dodging some leaping dolphins as we docked alongside, before completing the round trip.

We were collected at the dock, back on the bus for a short drive to where just four of us alighted to board the helicopter. We didn’t have time to think “What the …. are we doing?” Just time enough to hand over whatever was left in my wallet, climb in to a tiny five-seater chopper and take off. For the outward flight Heather sat between me and the pilot in the front and the ground fell away beneath us. We flew inches (well it felt like it) from the mountainsides, up and up and up, hovering while the pilot told us where we were: I already knew – a bloody long way up and a dead drop back down if things went wrong!.

Up some more until we were seemingly on top of the world, the mountains of Fiordland surrounding us. We landed on the glacier almost at the top of New Zealand’s second highest mountain, Tutoku. We climbed out and onto the ice, heeding the warnings to go neither near the back of the helicopter or the crevasses.

It really did defy words. We had had no time to think about it and here we were, a chopper flight to a glacier where the view was stunningly, wonderfully, beautifully – oh come on Fry, help me out – amazing.

Several people had told us we should do it, that it is an amazing experience, but I’m sorry, try as I might, I cannot explain just how brilliant it was.

Heather had a few instructions from the pilot

but didn’t take the controls on the way back!

When we rejoined the coach half an hour’s worth of drive up the road towards ‘home’ we were greeted with the nicest expressions of envy from some of our fellow day-trippers and a seemingly genuine pleasure on our driver’s part that we had enjoyed the flight.

Both of us feel it hasn’t quite sunk in yet. The day has left us tired and suffering a bit of sensory overload: how good a feeling is that?! If the holiday ended today I wouldn’t care: we’ve just been to a place we could only have dreamt of going to and, in fact, few people could ever get to until the invention of the helicopter. We did it on an exceptional and perfect day and we will never forget it.

Wildlife aplenty

I know this is two blogs in quick succession and there is only so much you can take but we have been out of WiFi access – where is a McDonalds when you need one? The campsite in Pounawea was lovely but they didn’t have broadband let alone WiFi. “Every other person asks about WiFi,” said the girl at reception. “I’ll have to get on to me Dad about that!”

The reason for posting this blog so soon after the other is because Pounawea turned out to be a wonderful place for seeing some amazing creatures,in the wild, in their normal habitat. We saw fur seals the other day:

Then one of the real highlights, i reckon, the rare yellow-eyed penguins walking up the beach at Nugget Point. There was a hide to go in but that was it: no other commercialisation and we saw ten of the little creatures waddle up the beach towards their nests. We’re a little way from them, up on the cliff so that we don’t scare them back into the sea, so the zoom lens is working overtime.

Before we set off for Invercargill we called in at Surat Bay and took way too many pictures of the sea lions sleeping on the beach. They took no notice of us what so ever and it was wonderful to see them in the wild. Once again we find ourselves pinching ourselves: these are sea lions on the beach, in New Zealand, and we are standing just a few metres from them.

Less of interest to me but no less extraordinary was visiting the best example (they say) of a petrified forest at Curio Bay. What I want to know is who scared it that much? In fact its tree stumps and fallen tress that have, over millions of years become like rocks, fossils. It was Jurassic in the true sense.

If you can see the lines in the water, they were trees and now, to touch them,you’d think they were rocks.

And despite all this Attenbrough stuff we still had time to get Heather’s portrait done in the Otaga Museum!

So this is what a tortoise feels like!

We seem to have got the bed-making and dismantling down to a … no, not a fine art,

more a graphic design and so our wheels have become our home, rattling around New Zealand behind us. In fact the cab bit feels not unlike a car but the cushions, pots, pans and drying washing flying around in the rear view mirror remind me a) to slow down, b) to take corners a little more gently than in the Holden V6 and c) that we are now in the land of ultra-chill where the Aussie “No worries” sounds quite panic-struck and paranoid.

We are beginning to resign ourselves to much more variable and cooler weather than in Aus and even in North Island. One minute it’s blue sky, the next black and stormy, one minute calm the next blowing a hurricane.We got away from Christchurch and headed south for Waikiki and then on to Oamaru. We had another look at some penguins which are the same as the ones on Philip Island but are called Blue here. It was much less commercialised than Philip Island and the view of them coming out of the sea was much better. Oamaru was a Victorian wool town and fascinating. Heather got yet more fabric for patchwork!

The next morning we headed for Dunedin, as Scottish as it sounds and dubbed the Edinburgh of NZ. On the way we turned off to a place called Moeraki and looked at some fur seals basking.

We got involved in a long chat with some people who have come away from Christchurch. One woman who had brought her grandson with her had pretty much lost her house. Their descriptions of what if was all like were spell-binding and the elderly man who was part of the group said how helpful it was to talk about it.

A lot of people have left the city and come to this area and clearly Christchurch is very twitchy. It has been noted that the temperature in the city has risen by two degrees and that has led to some speculation and ‘Moonman’, some local soothsayer, is now predicting a Richter 8 on March 20 and that really does seem to be getting too much coverage. Wellington got a wobble last night of 4.1 and with them long overdue a biggy they too are now going to be on edge.

After that we went to see the Moeraki Boulders, extraordinary, almost perfectly spherical boulders on the beach which no one can totally reliably explain.

 

 

 

 

 

Having got to Dunedin we stayed at a Butlins on wheels which was not very nice but meant we could see this kilted town, including what they boast is the steepest street in the world.

We decided to photograph it rather than test it: in fact you are not allowed to drive up it and I suspect this tortoise wouldn’t make it anyway.

The route from there to where we are now was beautiful. Sheep by the million, lovely rolling countryside and the weather I described before. Our site is nestled beside a beautiful estuary and we can see the sea in the mid-distance. Now this is what carrying your home round with you should be like.

Well this is a bit different!

Luxury: over. Being waited on: finished. Clean towels every day: at an end. Luxuriating in cascading showers morning and evening: a thing of the past. We are now ‘slumming it’! We collected the campervan from the Maui office in Christchurch, about an hour and a half drive from our wonderful night in Hanmer Springs (we’re going back there, even if we can’t stay in the motel again. When I went to pay this morning I walked in and, with dead straight face, ‘revealed’ that Heather and I were, in fact, hotel judges and I was sorry to report that ….. their motel had won every one of our ‘best of …’ categories! She looked very worried when I sounded official, still a bit when I said we weren’t really but that we were judging every place we stayed in (18 so far!) and ‘I regretted to have to inform…’ and then she seemed pleased to have even our accolade. And quickly asked us to send a comment to Trip Advisor!)

This is just the lounge of the two bedroom apartment we had in Hanmer Springs for about £80 the night!!

Anyway, on our route to the airport we saw nothing of the quake and its aftermath and as we drove away and out the other side the same applied. It just seems extraordinary that so much damage could be done about 5kms from where we were and there was not one single sign of it. It was interesting to talk to the woman who dealt with us describing how she was outside the office dealing with campervans and had to hold on to something to stop herself falling over when it hit. As we drove away there were home made signs offering accommodation in people’s homes: the only shortage seems to be of bottled water and that is only very near the city.

We got our DVD instructions about our van: it’s a small caravan with an engine at the front really, and very cleverly designed. My, this is going to be fun: making our bed every night and taking it apart every morning!! But, I tell you what, we are going to be able to get right inside some of the most amazing scenery I have ever seen, anywhere.

John and Coral are parked next to us for our first night.

They have done this before so if we have any doubts about what plugs into what we can shout for help. I am talking campervan here!  We asked Coral if she might do a Barbra Windsor impersonation a la ‘Carry on Camping’ but she’s still deciding who might play Sid James.

Wellington

It’s unbroken coverage of the earthquake here and there is a widespread sadness that it is worse then first feared. The number lost is rising and it seems likely that many of the missing are also lost.

Some shops here in Wellington declare that their profits this week will be given to the Red Cross to help in Christchurch; Wellington residents have offered rooms in their homes for people whose homes can’t be occupied and want time out from Christchurch and newspapers and tv are cover-to-cover, 24/7 coverage.

Wellington will feel a particular empathy because it is waiting,and has been for some time, for what is believed to be an inevitable quake, its parliament building sitting just 400 metres from a fault line. Christchurch was not known before September to be at risk and hadn’t got itself mended and quake protected after the shock September quake and the Boxing Day aftershock. Tuesday’s shock is also still being described as an aftershock.

We left an idyllic stopping place near Levin by feeding our hosts’ alpacas and taking a tour of their blueberry farm and art studios.

The route to Wellington was easy and, after a cloudy start, the sun shone and it got very warm. The only room the Motel had left was actually best part of an Edwardian house – two bedrooms, kitchen and dining room.

Our visit to Wellington has been really good. We went to the Te Papa Museum on both our first and second days: it’s big, varied and holds some excellent exhibits that capture both the Maori and more recent New Zealand history. I know it didn’t come close but there is a room which apparently simulates a strength 6 earthquake. Unnerving.

We joined up with John and Coral again as we came off the cable car: we had been unknowingly following each other round the city during the day, it transpired. John drove us round the bay and we finished up at a delightful restaurant near where they were staying and enjoyed one of the best meals we’ve had all trip – and that’s saying something.

We visited the Parliament building on our second morning: what a difference to our own revered seat of government. We were made welcome, shown round for free, encouraged to picnic on the grass out front – the whole atmosphere was open and relaxed. I appreciate that the scale of government is very different but there is a constitutional right to submit an idea AND have that heard in person by select committee. Any Bill is advertised widely and anyone can submit comment: I know our own government’s business is publicised and we now have a Prime Minister’s website but it just seems so much more open. Despite all that and the apparently very low key security the ‘beehive’ as it’s known can withstand a nuclear bomb going off in the bay 500metres away and has been adapted so that it now floats on rubber cushions and is quake proof as a result.

We enjoyed a second visit to the Te Papa and wandered the city a bit. We cross to South Island tomorrow and check with the campervan provider that they are still okay for us to collect on Sunday. The Mayor of Christchurch, who has been brilliant throughout – articulate, reassuring and encouraging – tells us that there is no shortage of either fuel or food in Christchurch and we just need to get the van and move away. The test for us is this: first do we make things more difficult if we go? As the campervan is near the airport it seems not. Second, do we make things more difficult if we don’t? The message from Thailand, Brisbane and Port Douglas was unequivocal: they need business to help them recover. All that said, if we are advised not to go near then we will rethink things and let you know what we are doing instead. In the meantime, as we head that way, I think this Maori blessing, photographed in the Te Papa Museum, is apt:

Wish it for us.

Rotorua and Napier

We are following the news from Christchurch and it really isn’t good but, again, be assured we are a long way away and are fine.

We did indeed have a long journey from Kerikeri in the north to Touranga but we made it by about 3.30pm when we met up with a guy called Martin Parkes who I taught 30 years ago. He emigrated to New Zealand just five years ago with his wife and daughter and they love it. It was so good to meet up with him and we had a really nice couple of hours on the sea front in Touranga reminiscing and hearing all about his life here.

We then completed the journey to meet up again with John and Coral in Rotorua in a bed and breakfast which was fine but really would never match the one we had left that morning. And it was raining when we arrived which is just not on our itinerary.

The following morning we went into the town and walked around a park in which there are numerous bubbling mud ponds and steam rising from holes and clouding above lakes and pools. Rocks below the ground are at such heat that water rises as steam with a mildly sulphurous smell which intensifies now and then.

 

It really is extraordinary. Locals use the heat to cook in the earth and the heat is put to more commercial energy uses. In the evening we went to a Mouri evening of entertainment and to see the geyser in Rotorua. It’s spectacular: every hour the pressure builds and the thing lets go, spaying you with what becomes quite cool water, laced with rather grey stuff which is murder on glasses and camera lenses.

We visited a couple of lakes right next to one another one called Green Lake the other called Blue Lake because the first is green and the other ….well you can guess. And we also visited a delightful Anglican church decorated with traditional Mouri carvings. A fascinating fusion.

I said last time that I would start using the aftersun lotion to minimise the effects of the sun and I have taken my own advice and the results are pleasing, I’m sure you’ll agree.

An unexpected side effect is the loss of chest hair and a serious lengthening of the tongue. This was, actually, part of the Mouri evening of entertainment which included the Haka and a really good meal with meat cooked from the thermals (not mine – I didn’t bring them with me!)

It was farewell again to J & C this morning to travel via Taupou to Napier. It was a fantastic drive through spectacular post volcanic terrain and miles and miles and miles of commercial forestry. There were wonderful waterfalls

and from a slightly grey-skied morning we got to Napier in blazing sunshine. Now that’s more like it.

Napier was destroyed by an earthquake in 1931 (actually largely by the resulting fires) and completely rebuilt in about two years. In fact the design of the building was, perhaps logically, art deco but it is only quite recently that the town realised what a treasure it had in itself and restoration and protection has resulted in an amazing art deco town.

The place is just full of gems and we will take another look tomorrow at some of the ones we had a fleeting glimpse of this evening on a guided walk.

And so it all continues in the same way: lots of sunshine, loads of great conversations with all we meet – this evening we talked over dinner in a restaurant with a NZ couple who were a treat. There is certainly a good deal of concern around about those in Christchurch and it is clearly a bad one. We will just have to wait and see how things develop.

Christchurch–reassurance

We thought we should just let you know that all is well with us. We are still on North Island – I was going to prepare our next blog to tell you about Rotorua and other wonderful things since we moved southwards but that isn’t a priority right now.

Christchurch is a long way away but we are/were due to cross to South Island on Saturday to pick up our campervan on Sunday. The City and the CBD have been hit badly but there are noises that the airport might be open tomorrow – it’s near the airport that we collect the van so it may be okay.

We’ll try to keep you up to date until the crisis is over and you can be reassured about where we are and that we’re fine. I’ll put the planned blog up either later today or tomorrow – WiFi permitting.

New Zealand–the start of the next leg

Having said a sad and reluctant farewell to Australia via Brisbane Airport we flew to Auckland. We took off at about half past five for what we thought was a long flight but the clocks needed to go three hours forward again so we landed at just before midnight NZ time but only three and a half hours after we had taken off. John and Coral Walton were at the airport to meet us after we took an hour to get through immigration control and biosomething or other checks. If only we’d ditched the Fruit ‘N’ Fibre and not had to declare it.

There must be something about me but I’ve been checked for contact with explosives three times (twice in one day) and on one occasion I was taken to a private room for the job to be done and I really thought the guy was reaching for the rubber gloves. Phew!

By the time we’d had coffee and caught up with all the news from the lovely Waltons it was about a quarter to three in the morning, their time. We weren’t so bad but did run out of steam the next day a bit.

And that day was spent on a wine tour of Weihiki Island. What an idyllic place. The wedding capital of the world it would seem and you can understand why. Mudbrick Vineyard had done six just this week and 147 last year. The place was beautiful with an impressive Auckland skyline as the back drop.

We had an excellent meal in the hotel and after a hearty breakfast the next morning said farewell to John and Coral to head off for the Bay of Islands in the Northlands. The car was upgraded again and this one is the best of the lot but the journey was long and not very fast. Both roadworks and an apparent problem with the car that needed checking out at a dealer slowed us a bit.

The greeting we got at the place we were staying in Kerikeri was amazing. And the place even more so. Absolutely stunning. Owned by a delightful couple from Amersham (she worked at Newlands College where Heather trained) the place and its setting are stunning.

We only had one full day here so we took much of the time visiting the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, the birth place of New Zealand, where the British Government appear to have done an unusually good job in getting factious tribal leaders to agree to work together in exchange for protection from the Brits (largely to keep the French out one suspects!). It was a totally fascinating place.

The sun is beginning to take its toll

but I shall start using after sun lotion before it has too damaging an effect.

We have a mighty journey ahead of us tomorrow with a trip from here to Tauranga to meet up with someone I taught 30 years ago and emigrated to NZ. It’s then on to Rotorua by evening to meet up with John and Coral again for a couple of days.

Please forgive misspellings of Mouri names: they are difficult to spell and even more difficult to say!

Port Douglas–the Barrier Reef

We arrived from Brisbane to Cairns at just after 11pm after a way too easy drive from Hervey Bay – a journey which was supposed to need six hours could have been done easily in four so we took detours. One was to a patchwork shop – we travel 12000 miles and go to a patchwork shop!! In fact Heather was able to buy some fabric which will remind us of some of the Australian flora. And the couple who ran the shop were delightful and insisted we must have lunch in Malooloobah. Well you have to just for the name!

The flight was early leaving, faster than scheduled and early landing but the transfer was there and we got to the Tree Tops Resort in Port Douglas at about half past midnight in the middle of a tropical rainstorm.

(This is the view through our hotel room window each evening)

The hotel had no record of us being booked there but “no worries” and we had a great night’s sleep,

Next morning we walked for forty minutes along the beach to Port Douglas itself, a smart seaside resort, bought the stuff we needed to avoid paying $30-40 for breakfast (each!!), and booked ourselves on a catamaran sailing to the Barrier Reef for the following day. Mr and Mrs You-Can’t Be Too Careful, hyphen Too Sensible and sailing voluntarily on boats are not phrases usually heard together. But, this is ‘trip of a lifetime’ time and these things have to be done.

I can’t think how to describe that day other than simply perfect. The weather was idyllic – almost cloudless blue skies, maybe 30C and calm water.

The beautiful boat, Wavedancer III, was barely half full and we cruised out to Low Isles, two islands on the inner reef. Issued with our stinger-proof lycra suits Heather snorkelled while I took a look at the coral in a glass-bottomed boat. Heather’s hesitation with the suit was that it looked like a baby-grow and I hadn’t taken a banana with me. Oh well, needs must and they were insistent we must wear these not entirely flattering numbers. It is pure chance, and lucky for you, that Heather didn’t get a picture of me so attired.

We saw turtles, sharks, butterfly fish, other fish of all sorts, sea cucumber, giant clams and loads of real, living coral. The guys leading the trip said it was the best weather they had had for ages and the conditions were little short of perfect. Lunch on board was huge and excellent. We had a little while on the island and a bit more snorkelling time before we had to head back, sitting at the front of the boat chatting to anyone and everyone.

Heather took some pictures underwater using the waterproof bag Simon and Leah gave her for Christmas and the mask and snorkel Peter, Si, Kim and Leah gave her. I can’t put any up here yet because we haven’t got the lead I need to download them. But I tell you this was just the most perfect, perfect day and words don’t get close to describing how we both feel right now at the end of it. Neither of us could quite believe that we were really, really watching sharks and turtles darting about within feet of us in the bath-warm waters of the Great Barrier Reef off the coast of Northern Queensland, Australia. And basking in the best weather the area has had this summer.

It’s the stuff of dreams. Blimey cobber, our luck holds: big time.

Fraser Island

We walked the couple of kilometres from the hotel to pick up the car in Brisbane (another upgrade) and got soaked. Rain! This is NOT what we ordered. We headed north for Noosa. This journey, from Brisbane to Fraser Island was supposed to take about 6 hours according to the travel agent. Google Maps reckoned more like four and a half but locals said it was about three and a half and I think that’s about the closest. So, in fact, the arrangements Trailfinders made for this part of the trip haven’t been as clever as the rest so far.

Noosa Heads was our overnight stop. The place Trailfinders had chosen first had been so badly slagged off on Trip Advisor we got them to change it. The Noosa Blue Resort, the replacement, provided us with a suite – all very impressive with a Jacuzzi IN the bedroom, I’ll have you know. Sadly the floor felt like walking on the beach and the whole place was grubby and rundown. I put on the customer feedback that it seemed neglected: could have been amazing but wasn’t. We learnt from the receptionist when we checked out that it was in the hands of receivers.Noosa itself was nice but totally dead. Restaurant proprietors were dragging us off the street and paying us to eat in their establishments to give them something to do. We should be so lucky on that count but it was dead.

We slept well and headed for Fraser Island in the drizzle. Got there far quicker than we had anticipated and soon discovered that, on this count, Trailfinders had not worked it right and we could have flown one way as we thought but were told we couldn’t and we parked the car at the airport as instructed when the resort has its own parking much nearer the ferry which would have not required paying for a transfer. Heads will roll, I tell you, heads will roll!

Never mind. We crossed at 3.30pm with just ONE other couple to check in at an almost deserted large resort on this island made up totally of sand. They upgraded our room because they had plenty to spare. One of the restaurants was closed because there were not enough clients to make running three viable but we had an excellent meal in one of the others – in fact probably the best value meal we have had so far and by far the cheapest glass of beer yet.

It has become clear from our conversations with restaurateurs and hotel staff that people are avoiding Queensland because of the floods and the cyclone. Though we didn’t know it they do consider this to be their wet and quieter period but it is evident that the situation is exceptional. We seem to be gaining upgrades of cars and rooms willy nilly so we’re fine with that and we are clearly welcomed as business for a region which is in recovery.

We booked onto the day tour of the island which involved hurtling along the sand roads and the beach in this MAN (for the vehicularly-minded):

and we were taken to see all sorts, including the paradise beach of Lake McKenzie

and the wreck of the good ship Mehano. I only included this bit because I like the picture.

We joined a charming couple for dinner: we had travelled over on the ferry with them, chatted during the tour and they were really nice company.

It really is a lovely place. the weather was not good on our arrival but it has been beautiful since, warm with blue skies flecked with white cloud – apparently better than they have had for a good while. We just crashed on the beach and by the pool for our last day and prepared for the trip back to Brisbane and the flight up to Cairns for transfer to Port Douglas. More people have arrived: the resort has been advertising big offers and we talked to a couple from Brisbane who had taken advantage of that: they normally camp rough on the island and thought this was the height of luxury. We think weekenders have inflated the numbers too.

We had a wonderful drive back down the Sunshine Coast stopping at Forest Fern to visit a patchwork shop – give me strength!! And then, on the advice of the delightful people in the shop, spent the afternoon in Malooloobah for lunch and to sit in the scorching sunshine looking at the beach and the surfers. Just delightful.

Right now I’m in Brisbane Airport where I have sweet-talked the VirginBlue lounge receptionist who divulged that I might pick up their WiFi just outside. So I’m going to try and hope I don’t self-destruct immediately afterwards. If it doesn’t work then this blog will have to wait until Cairns and be a bit out of date. But this isn’t BBC 24 you know.

Brisbane

We arrived in Brisbane seemingly 10 minutes after we left Sydney because this Queensland city’s clocks are an hour behind Sydney’s. Why? No idea. We knew, of course, that Brisbane had suffered from serious flooding only just before we left home but as we walked a round there was no apparent evidence. And yet something wasn’t right and it just didn’t seem like the city I visited a couple of years ago. There are no obvious tide marks on buildings, everything’s tidy but something’s not right.

We walked down to the river and then all became clear. The river is just dead: the exciting, busy riverscape with it’s river buses flitting from one bank to the other, up and down, back and forth, the marina with its fancy boats, the riverside restaurants full from coffee time to late evening no longer exists. All the ferry wharves are gone and there was just nothing on the mud brown river.

And then the damage becomes clear: flotsum above head height in the trees on the bank, the basement carparks all closed, the library and museum closed. We spoke to several locals who talked it all down but with sad and dejected voices describing their businesses decimated. It’s very, very sad.

In the city centre life sort of goes on as before but there is much to be done to restore this place and they know it has all happened before (far worse) and will most certainly happen again.

 

We have had a really nice stay for all this. We were taken on a guided walk of the city’s historical sites by a volunteer guide besotted by his city of birth and it it was really interesting and enjoyable. But, as we head up the coast tomorrow we more seriously wonder what we are going to see on the next part of our adventure.